Setting Up the MJX 10304: How I Made It Fun on Track

After the first MJX 10304 test, I checked the car and returned to the track. This time I could keep it straight, correct the steering and start enjoying it. The improvement followed several changes; it was not simply a matter of switching on the gyro.

The Rear Differential Was Too Tight

Opening my car, I found the rear differential very stiff and could feel the teeth as I turned it. I cleaned it and checked its assembly. In the video I explain removing some washers that were contributing to the excessive tightness, before finishing with grease.

This describes the correction to my differential. It is not an instruction to remove washers from every 10304: the gears must work without binding or excessive play.

At the front I replaced the contents with 1,000,000 cSt silicone fluid. I wanted considerably more resistance at the front than the rear. This was my starting point for this track and these tyres, rather than a universal setup.

Returning to a Baseline Geometry

I checked camber and alignment, particularly at the front. In the recording I explain finding a position I disliked that changed as the suspension compressed. I started with approximately neutral camber before adjusting further.

I am not publishing a table of angles because the video does not provide a complete geometry measurement. It does show that the car’s assembly needed checking before blaming everything on the servo.

Changing the Supplied Springs

While editing the first test, I noticed how much the car bounced. I tried the other supplied spring set and obtained suspension behaviour that worked better for me.

Before driving, I checked compression and ride-height recovery. The difference was noticeable, but I am not presenting a spring rate or colour as a general rule: check which sets your package includes.

I Also Changed the Transmitter and Receiver

I used my RadioMaster MT12 and a DumboRC receiver. The RF system and protocol must be compatible: a DumboRC receiver does not bind directly to ExpressLRS simply because you use an MT12. Check the version or installed module.

I drove with the gyro disabled during this outing. That matters because I am not attributing the improvement to greater gyro intervention. My MT12 experience explains the transmitter options.

What Changed When Driving

I could apply throttle and make small corrections without the car snapping sideways as before. The rear still broke away slightly and the track was dirty, but its reactions were now manageable.

I retained the original tyres. There was no timed comparison with the Tamiya or another car, so a feeling of speed should not be treated as a lap-time result.

Because I changed differentials, geometry, springs and radio, the recording cannot isolate each change’s contribution. I can describe the combined result on my car.

Battery and Outstanding Work

I tested a Turnigy BOLTX LiHV 3S 2400mAh supplied by HobbyKing. I liked its response, but any LiHV is not automatically a replacement: confirm the battery, charger and electronics support its maximum voltage. The battery guide explains the difference.

The body was already damaged in the early tests, and I had not found a replacement when recording. Better handling does not remove that damage or establish current spare-parts availability.

My view changed after this work: I now enjoy it. For anyone wanting a track car without adjustments, the setup time I needed still matters.

Video Links and Equipment Mentioned

The car and battery links come from the description of this second instalment. The MT12 is included as equipment I use, with radio compatibility to check for each receiver.