Wltoys 124017 and 144010 Upgrades: Radio and Drivetrain

This guide's video (Spanish)

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The upgrade that changes my Wltoys experience most is not a more powerful motor: it is better control of the car. I start this video with the transmitter and receiver, then move to the drivetrain and wheels. That order reflects what I notice most when driving my cars.

The video covers the 124017 and 144010, but their parts are not all interchangeable. Check model, revision and dimensions before buying. Links from the video and channel parts-list comment are below; check each selected variant.

Transmitter and Receiver: Start with Feel

I replace the original system with a DumboRC and gyro receiver. Throttle is easier to modulate from a standstill and the response feels better. This is a user comparison, without an instrumental latency measurement.

I test the receiver before sticking it in place. In the installation shown, the servo uses channel 1 and the ESC channel 2, respecting polarity markings. The first check is with the car raised and its wheels free.

Initially the gyro corrects in the wrong direction. I reverse it using the receiver button and check again before driving. That button sequence belongs to the receiver in the video: consult your model’s manual. Reversing steering on the transmitter does not replace checking gyro correction direction.

I then secure receiver and wiring without letting the tie rub against or trap the driveshaft.

Metal Slipper and Spur Gear

Next is a slipper assembly with a metal spur. Installation requires access to the primary shaft, removing the top section and opening the differential housings.

Keep screws organised by area and retain steering bushings. Missing or misplaced bushings can bind the steering when tightened.

The video shows the assembly and adjustment spring, without prescribing a universal nut setting. I check bearing seating and drivetrain rotation before closing. Spur material alone does not determine whether this is an improvement: assembly and adjustment matter.

Thicker Cups, CVDs and Driveshafts

My original cups show wear, and I compare their thickness with the replacements. I fit differentials with thicker cups, front CVDs and rear cups and shafts.

During assembly I:

• Transfer bearings where appropriate and check their seating.
• Retain wheel-hex pins.
• Seat each shaft in its cup before reconnecting the link.
• Check rotation and suspension travel for binding.

A thicker-looking part is not automatically compatible. Check length, support surfaces, pins and travel with the actual components.

Asphalt Wheels

For asphalt I recommend the wheels I use over the originals, also noting that initial cold grip differs from grip after a little running.

I do not identify a compound or reference absent from the source material. Check diameter, hex, clearance and rubbing through steering and suspension travel. Do not automatically apply an asphalt choice to dirt.

Before Looking for More Speed

I would first address control and worn parts, then consider the slipper and drivetrain according to use. This is an installation video, without lap-time comparisons or a long-term replacement-parts durability test.

Before changing battery voltage, confirm the installed electronics’ limits. Having used 3S in one car does not establish compatibility for every revision or combination.

See the 124017 review, its track project and the 144010 model page. This guide links to both models to collect shared upgrades, rather than serving as a review of each car.

Purchase Links from the Video

Check variants, connectors and compatibility. Links do not guarantee availability or a particular price.